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Sunderland: A
Brief History |
 underland,
Massachusetts, is one of the southernmost towns in Franklin
County. The community is situated in the eastern portion of the
Connecticut River Valley in western Massachusetts.
Sunderland was
incorporated as a town in 1718. Before being incorporated,
Sunderland was known as Swampfield, so named by us first settlers
because of the swampland within the town. Settlement of the town
originated on what is now North and South Main Streets, with forty
designated house lots. Settlers were also assigned an equal
percentage of swampland, pasture land, and wood lots. North and
South Main Streets are scenic, broad avenues that appeal to
our sense of what a small New England town should be. In the late
1820s, maple trees were planted on each side of the street, which
has added to Sunderland’s beauty, especially as leaves change
color, or after a snowfall. The houses are a pleasing mix of sizes
and styles; in fact, Sunderland’s main street has examples of
most of the architectural styles of the 18th, 19th and 20th
centuries.
Mount Toby range is another source of beauty and historic
background. A watch tower is at the peak along with a commanding
view of the river valley. The north part of Mt. Toby is the home
of the “Sunderland Cave.” It is not technically a cave, but
huge slabs of tipped conglomerate rock. Caves are rare in this
part of New England, which has made this one more widely
known. Sunderland’s first Irish immigrants located their homes
on Mount Toby in the mid-nineteenth century, which were known as
“paddy farms.” Trails are still evident, along with old stone
walls marking boundary lines.
Sunderland, still then known as Swampfield, was set off from
neighboring Hadley in 1673, with the Connecticut River as the
western boundary with Deerfield. Settlement was abandoned during
King Philip’s War (1675) and re-established as the town of
Swampfield in 1714, extending north to Hunting Hills (Montague),
and cast to Long Plain (Leverett). Montague was set off from
Sunderland in 1754, and Leverett in 1774.
Farming developed as the primary industry particularly crop
production in the excellent soils of the river valley. Agriculture
prospered, helping to add villages in North Sunderland and
Plumtrees (the eastern side of Sunderland) in the early 19th
century. Introduction of commercial tobacco expanded settlement to
the Meadows (southern side of Sunderland) in the early 19th
century. Although farming was tile main occupation, there were
supporting industries throughout Sunderland ‘s history, such as
tobacco shops and farm machinery suppliers, as well as sawmills
stores, gravel operations, and blacksmiths. Today there is a large
gravel operation, a rest home, garages and convenience stores,
insurance and real estate operations, as well as vegetable
farming.
With the Connecticut River as one of Sunderland’s boundaries,
ferries were used at the river for crossing until 1812, when the
first bridge was constructed. Sunderland has had a total of 10
bridges. The main causes of our fallen bridges were high water,
ice, and piers not high enough to clear rising water levels,
especially in the spring. The tenth bridge is 47 feet above normal
water level, and has stood since 1938.
Sunderland was also home to “The Amherst to Sunderland Street
Railway.” Although the trolley car only lasted from 1890-1926,
it matted progress for Sunderland. In that period, high school
students from Sunderland could ride the trolley to school in
Amherst.
Natural disasters are not unknown to Sunderland. Residents have
endured floods (1927 and 1936) and a hurricane (1938). Damage had
been great in some parts of town, but over time one would never
know of the mishaps.
The small town of Sunderland has grown in population over the past
30 years with a current population of about 3,400. More houses and
apartment complexes have been built, and the town has gone from a
farming community to a bedroom community, giving easy access to
out-of town jobs, especially at the nearby University of
Massachusetts and other local colleges (Amherst College, Hampshire
College, Mt. Holyoke College, and Smith College).
Compiled by Wendy Houle,
Sunderland Historical Commission
Sources:
History of Sunderland, 1899; History of Sunderland, Vol.
H., 1954; Beers Atlas of Franklin County,
18734; Massachusetts Historical Commission Reconnaissance
Survey Report, 1982; Sunderland’s Main Street
Walking Tour, 1993; My Sunderland - Quarter millennial souvenir of
Sunderland. 1968; A Gazetteer of
Massachusetts,
p. 282; History of the Connecticut Valley, Vol. Il; Centennial
Gazette, 1792-1892, pp. 101-103 |
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